First, some news: I am no longer Algiers’ foremost lady of leisure. (As much as this city lends itself to leisure, anyway). I have traded my well-worn pajama pants for pants with a zipper and a button as I have again found myself having a real pants-wearing job. This job is both a real, as […]
Category: Africa
Roman Ruins, Italian Food, and a Museum with a Sad History in Tunis
The three of us – Adam, our friend Sarah, and I – recently shuffled across the epic mosaic floors at the Bardo National Museum in Tunis, Tunisia and gazed at the intricate tile walls depicting ghoulish sea creatures or fertile signs of the Zodiac. “Can you imagine how long this must have taken?” Adam said, […]
A Desert Party from a Magazine Spread
It’s officially the holiday season here in Algiers. Our Christmas tree is up, our house is aglow in twinkle lights, we are going to lots of parties and eating our weights in decadent foods. We are preparing to host our Fourth Annual Holiday Spirit Cocktail Contest Party in just a few short days and I’m […]
The Hippy Artist Vibes of Essaouria
We have arrived to our new home in Algiers and I’ll start providing updates real soon. Our house (you read that right, house) is incredible. It is big and interesting and has a ton of windows. It’s built into a hillside and has a patio on one level, and a yard up above that. I […]
Emily’s Guide to Rabat
Rabat is often skipped over on the tourist agenda when traveling to Morocco. And it’s a shame, because Morocco’s capital city has a lot to offer visitors (and even more to offer those of us lucky enough to live here). It’s bright and clean, has just the right amount of shopping at much lower prices […]
Oulja Artisan Village: A Moroccan Decor Paradise
When I first moved to Rabat, I heard whisperings that there was a “pottery village” across the river in Salé and I was intrigued. When I finally checked out Oulja Pottery Village, or as I call it Oulja Artisan Village (because it’s more than pottery), I was gobsmacked. There exists a peaceful complex filled with […]
Volubilis: A Perfect Day Trip from Rabat
Readers, I’m sorry posts have been sparse this past month. The thing with living in a place as cool as Morocco for just nine months is everyone wants to visit! So we’ve had a revolving door of family and friends and it’s been fun (repeat trips to Chefchaouen, Marrakech, Fez) but hasn’t left me much […]
The Pirate City Across the River
Rabat/Salé is one of those city duos separated by a river, like Minneapolis/St. Paul, or Budapest. The Bou Regreg river divides Rabat and Salé and empties into the Atlantic at the edge of both cities. Here is how novelist Edith Wharton described the two cities in her 1920 guidebook “In Morocco:” Salé the white and […]
Travel Scams (And How to Not Let Them Ruin Your Trip)
I recently read this article about the most common scams on travelers in Morocco and how to avoid them and it got me thinking about how much I hate, loathe, despise and abominate being at the receiving end of an attempted scam. There’s something uniquely sucky when someone tries to scam you when you’re in the open-hearted […]
Hats off to Fez’s Magical Medina
Fez used to be the capital of Morocco but today it’s the country’s artisan capital, which is why it was high on my list for a visit. Many of Morocco’s beautiful goods, like pottery, rugs, leather goods, blankets, baskets, and more that I’ve seen all throughout Morocco are made in Fez. In November, I drove a […]