There are two Ultra-Orthodox neighborhoods in the center of Jerusalem – Geula and Mea Shearim – and I’ve been too nervous to venture in to them during my nearly three years in Jerusalem. Every new arrival to the city hears horror stories about unknowing motorists driving into these neighborhood during Shabbat and being met with […]
A first glance, Machane Yehuda market – or simply the “Shuk” to locals – looks shabby, a sort of a slapdash jumble of stalls selling bright vegetables, fresh fish, dried fruits, spices and a few shops selling kippas, plastic housewares, conservative clothes, Ethiopian baskets. But don’t let the junky exterior fool you: The Shuk is […]
I think it’s safe to say that after two-and-a-half years in Jerusalem, I’ve tried most of the best cocktails in the city. That’s not saying a whole lot, because Jerusalem isn’t particularly known for creative cocktails and cool bars, although Tel Aviv is. We mostly drink cocktails from our own bar cart, which always features […]
A few days before we left beloved Madrid, I was sitting in my favorite coffee shop attempting to order a filter coffee. I knew this place didn’t sell filter/drip/pour-over coffee, but still I liked to ask because how else will they know there’s a demand for something other than bitter espresso drinks? A guy sitting next […]
Jerusalem’s Old City always feels to me rather mysterious and dark, filled with masses of Christian tourists from Italy and the Philippines who are retracing the steps of Jesus, but also with thousands of residents retracing the steps of their parents and grandparents who walked the same slippery stones in the Old City. Vendors sell […]
It’s finally here: The day when I feel happy enough about the state of our apartment to take pictures and share them with you all! When we first arrived to Jerusalem (almost two years ago to the day), I was in tears when I saw our drab apartment out in the West Jerusalem suburbs, but […]
Jews around the world say “Next year in Jerusalem!” at the end of the Passover seder. I know because, while I’m not Jewish, I’ve joined Mr. Em in Jerusalem’s family seders pretty much since I’ve known him (and we even co-hosted a particularly interesting one at our hotelpartment in Yemen). I’ve now spent two Passovers in […]
I’m back in Jersualem, and it’s especially evident that we’ve been living here a year because the things from last November/December are back: There’s the upcoming annual fancy fundraiser at a gorgeous old hotel; the Christmas tree is up Bethlehem’s town square (and another one is up in our living room); and the skies are no longer […]
It’s practically summer in Jerusalem: The lavender and wild rosemary are going gangbusters, we had our first triple-digit day (that’s Fahrenheit), and the lush strawberries in the markets have been replaced by sweet cherries. (Still no limes, but, alas, that is my new reality). Jerusalem is starting to feel more like home. I’m moving past […]
Readers of this blog know I’m not a big fan of our suburban apartment in Jerusalem. But as we’ll be here for three years, I’ve got to make the best of it. And making the best of it for me is transforming our apartment into a space in which I want to hang out in, cook in, work […]
